Kenzan

Chirashi sushi or nigiri? At Kenzan, choosing between the two is part of the pleasure of lunch. One diner described the chirashi sushi as generously topped, with sea urchin and firefly squid among its ingredients. The meal began with tender simmered octopus and a dressed vegetable dish of burdock and butterbur. Chawanmushi followed, with firefly squid and ginkgo nuts, then the chirashi sushi and pickles arrived as the diner finished. The diner also appreciated being asked when they would like their miso soup served—a thoughtful touch for anyone hoping to take lunch at an unhurried pace.

Another diner recalled the sweetness of the squid in the lunchtime nigiri. The listed Shio-kaze course is a sushi set menu with two small starters, three kinds of sashimi, chawanmushi, six pieces of nigiri, one hand roll of your choice, soup, pickles and dessert. Fillings for the hand roll include tuna, minced tuna with spring onion, fatty tuna with pickled daikon, pickled radish with plum and shiso, cucumber and burdock. For a course that also includes a small grilled dish and a second hand roll, there is the Hama-kaze. Both offer a varied meal with several courses to work through.

For a meal centred more firmly on nigiri, the menu also lists a counter omakase of twelve pieces. The selection changes with seasonal sourcing, and comes with a small dish and soup. After enjoying squid in the lunchtime nigiri, diners might be tempted to leave the choice to the chef next time.